Wednesday, 5 June 2019

Munich/Dachau - Salzburg/Hallstatt - Prague - Berlin/Potsdam (Jun 2019)







1 Jun 2019 (Sat) Munich - Dachau - Salzburg

Munich in the sunny morning is always so lovely. I couldnt help but take photos of this beautiful city and its countryside.

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4. Prien Am Chiemsee between Salzburg and Munich. The Alps was at the far end.


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The queue at Munich passport control was unbelievably slow. The queue at Hertz was equally slow. The lady at Hertz rental counter told us that the system was down, and hence everything has to be written manually. We got a Ford Galaxy diesel model, that came with a retractable sun roof and a GPS. The hardshell luggages barely fitted in the compartment behind.

At the beginning, my cousin couldn’t quite handle the gear system, apparently the first gear and the reverse gear of this car is handled differently from the manual sedan model that we were used to in Malaysia. The very kind gentlemen from Sixt came to our rescue even though we didn’t rent from them, as we have already left the level where Hertz was. After a few rounds of practice in the car park with the Sixt personnel coaching him, my cousin was finally ready to drive the car out to the streets confidently.

First stop we went to was Dachau. The guided tour would start at 1pm, so we walked to the nearby McDonalds to have a quick lunch before the walking tour started. Weather was warm,the sun was glaring. Our guide that afternoon was a lady from California, she walked at an incredibly fast pace and explained the history of Dachau concentration camp as much as she could to us. Simply too much to absorb in a warm afternoon. What used to be the SS quarter was currently the Riot Police quarter of Munich, so it is out of bound to us. We toured the ground and the buildings.

Background on Dachau: Dachau, the first Nazi concentration camp in Germany, established on March 10, 1933, slightly more than five weeks after Adolf Hitler became chancellor. Built at the edge of the town of Dachau, about 12 miles (16 km) north of Munich, it became the model and training centre for all other SS-organized camps.

If you are interested to know more about Dachau Concentration Camp, please CLICK THIS LINK.

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13. Cant imagine doing hard labour under sun as glaring as this. Let alone the severe cold during winter.
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16. The warning by the NAZI said "No Smoking" on the pillar was left intact, as a grim reminder of what happened.


17. You can see how many inmates lining up for headcount every night before they went to rest.


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Hitler came to absolute dictatorship after the NAZI government issued the Fire Decree. Munich was therefore originally used as a political camp for opponents. It was later that the camp was used to house the Jews. The crematorium was never really put into use unlike some other centres. It was the 2nd last to be liberated by the Allied Forces.

To know more about fire decree in 1933, please CLICK THIS LINK.

After our 3 hour tour in Dachau, we drove to Salzburg. I managed to get the autobahn vignette from the gasoline station before entering the Austrian border. The kiosk attendant asked me if I have a yellow vest, which is a requirement in case one need to get out of car on the road during emergencies. I was tempted to get one, without knowing that there was actually one, together with the torch light, in the closet of the car provided by Hertz.

After we checked in at the hotel in Salzburg, we went to Die Weisse for some authentic local dish. I must say the food was good. The sun still didn’t set by the time we walk home at around 8pm. It only started to set at 9pm. Supermarket was already closed at 6pm. Apparently supermarkets are closed at 6pm on Saturday and whole day on Sunday. One can still buy stuff from the petrol kiosk or mini marts that are still opened.

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2 Jun 2019 (Sun) Hallstatt - Dachstein - Salzburg

Background on Salzburg and Hallstatt:

Salzburg is the capital city of the State of Salzburg and the fourth-largest city in Austria. Its historic centre (Altstadt) is renowned for its Baroque architecture and is one of the best-preserved city centres north of the Alps, with 27 churches.

Mozart was born in Salzburg back in 1756. The Mozart Residence on Makartplatz and the Mozart Birthplace on the Getreidegasse, both of which are now museums. Numerous concerts, festivals and guided tours keep the spirit of Mozart alive and well in Salzburg.

Hallstatt is a small town known for its production of salt, dating back to prehistoric times. It is about an hour's drive from Salzburg. The neighbouring village Obertraun has cable car link to the snow mountain in Dachstein, for winter skiing.

On the way to Hallstatt today, we took a quick photo stop near Wolfgang See.

23. Wolfgang See
The sun was as glaring as yesterday if not more. After driving through we some tunnels, we saw the parking directions signboard and followed it. We parked our car and walked to the village. The shops were very tastefully decorated. There was Trdelnik available at a bakery in town but it was still not in operation. So we waited outside, as the shop attendants just arrived and were feeding the swans nearby. We went to see the baby swans swimming while waiting for them to bake us the fresh trdelnik, we being their first customer for that day.

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After we had some brunch, we walk up to the crematorium to have a view of the town from above. It was not a very tough walk uphill. We even continue to walk further up to see the waterfall and met two Malaysian ladies there who just visited Budapest. Naturally we spoke about the boat capsize tragedy that happened there not long ago. They told us Budapest was having alternate day of rain and shine while they were there.

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41. The water of this fountain was from the waterfall shown in the next picture.


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55. Only local residents can park at this carpark next to the waterfall. All other cars have to continue to drive through the tunnels and park their cars at the designated public carpark.


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59. We walked further up and bump into the two Malaysian ladies around here.


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After visiting the town square, took a look at the church, we walked to the supermarket in town operated by the Asian to get some grocery done. The supermarket operated by the Asian was our savior for the day.

We decided it was time to cool down somewhere in the snow mountain. The cable car at Obertraun to Dachstein Snow Mountain was an ideal place to beat the heat. Plus toilets in the cable car station is free, unlike those at Hallstatt where one has to pay to use the washrooms.

One thing to note in Hallstatt and practically many places we were about to visit. There will be no free toilets and free parking even at the petrol kiosks. So imagine our happiness when we realized that the car park and toilets in the cable station were free of charge. Guess it is all included in the expensive cable car ride.

From the cable car station up the mountain, we still had to walk some distance (around 15 minutes) to reach the viewing gallery at Five Fingers. Luckily they had already clear the walking trail of snows, otherwise we will need crampons to walk on the snow/ice. The five fingers have glass lining the platform where one can stand on and take pictures or admire the view of Hallstatt or Obertraun from above.

This place is a ski heaven during winter.

We had great fun playing with the snow. We were really lucky to return to the station by 515pm as the last ride down will be at 6pm.

Cable car to Dachstein from Obertraun

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75. Only the top part of the bench was still visible, the rest buried by the snow.


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After we returned to Salzburg, we realized that most shops are closed on Sunday. One good news is street parking become free now. We went to have dinner at a pizzeria, but it was disappointed that the shop that overcharged us.

Some photos near sunset time.

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3 Jun 2019 (Mon) Salzburg

The next day, we took trolleybus to Mirabellgarten to take pictures. This was the venue they filmed the song do-re-mi in the movie The Sound of Music.

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A bit of history on Mirabellgarten: CLICK THIS LINK to read the history of this beautiful garden.

The next place we went was HohenSalzburg, and this cable on the hill was magnificent. Not only the view from above was impressive, the inside of the castle was quite magnificent as well. We had great fun exploring the whole place with the help of audio guide. From the top of the castle, we can even see Salzburg Airport which was nearby. Turnip was used as the symbol for the castle for one reason.

History of Hohensalzburg Fortress: CLICK THIS LINK. to read about the history of Hohensalzburg Fortress.

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105. To the top of the castle.


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120. Why turnip? CLICK THIS LINK. to see possible explanations.


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Bell chime heard at Hohensalzburg:

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After the castle visit, we went to Mozart Square to have sandwiches, before heading back to hotel to escape the afternoon heat.

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In the evening, we came out once again to capture the lights of Mirabellgarten and the river. There was a weird fellow who whistle very loudly when we walked past and scared the hell out of us.

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This evening I had dinner at a Chinese restaurant, the cook was a Malaysian from ipoh. He has worked in Salzburg for more than 30 years. He told us that the houses in Salzburg was getting more expensive, and one must stinge in order to survive in Salzburg as the standard of living is high.



4 Jun 2019 (Tue) Salzburg - Prague

The next morning, I walked up to the hill just behind our hotel to the Kapuziner Monastery. On the trail I bumped into a deer. From the platform near the Kapuziner Monastery, one can have a panoramic view of Salzburg.

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Salzburg view from Kapuziner Monastery:

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We drove to Prague, and my cousin set his Waze GPS to no toll road, so we ended up driving along two-laner trunk road similar to the old trunk road in Malaysia. This road is full of trucks, so overtaking was a time consuming effort. We passed through many small Chezh towns on the way, which resemble sleepy Russian villages, with murals on the building walls, left from the past era. During a fairly long section through the forests, there was no gasoline station. Luckily we bumped into Robin Oil after we have got out of the forest section. We quickly pump the car full.

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Regional Train crossing seen, on the way to Prague

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After some wrong turns near Prague, we managed to reach our apartment. The apartment we rented was a typical Chezh building. One double bed room and another room with 4 single beds, no air cond but had small fans in the room. The only toilet in the apartment cannot be locked. It has a kitchen and microwave oven, so we could cook breakfasts in the morning. The newest thing in the apartment was the lift. It was a new lift with tactile touch buttons, so it was fun just to get the correct buttons felt and pressed. The temperature outside the apartment felt 2 degrees colder than inside the apartment so I always open our apartment door and hop in and out to feel the difference.

We took tram number 16 to the dinner location and saw a big protest on the way. The lady on the tram explained that people was not happy with the president as they think he had committed crime.

The news below explained what the protest was about. The protest happened again on 23 Jun after we came back, at a bigger scale.





Dinner was at a Chezh restaurant, we ordered too much. Food there was in huge proportion.

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After dinner, we went to take pictures at the Clock Tower and at Charles Bridge. There were many people at Charles Bridge till late. The Prague Castle stood aloof at the far end, with beautiful lights adorned it.

Astronomical Clock at Prague that give a show every hour:

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163. Prague Castle


164. Charles Bridge.




5 Jun 2019 (Wed) Prague

A bit of history on how Czechoslovakia became part of USSR: CLICK THIS LINK.

The trams that went from our place to Petrin Hill was no.22 and no.23, but no.22 was always too full for us to get in during morning rush hour. Finally no.23 came and no.23 was normally not that crowded, with seats available. The trick therefore was to wait for the infrequent no.23. We took the funicular up Petrin Hill and there was a tower there that looked like Eiffel Tower, though we didn’t go up the tower.

My cousins were chatting with a Chezh that used to work as a policeman in USA for many years before he came back to Chezh to spend his retirement. He told us that many blacks died under the guns of the police in USA. During those years, he found that USA was not as oppressive as Chezh, and he had the freedom to do what he likes in the USA. He recommended that when we drive from Prague to Berlin the next day, we could stop over at Dresden and visit the city briefly.

165. Petrin Hill has roses.
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171. Vintage tram


After that we went to try Trdelnik at a shop near Prague Castle. They have many flavours to choose from.

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176. This was not the shop we bought trdelnik from but this shop was nearer to the castle and had more people queing.


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We missed the change of guards at Prague Castle at 12 noon, and caught a simpler ceremony at 1pm (the simpler ceremony goes on every hour). We visited St Vitus Cathedral which was totally impressive. Mum managed to find nice souvenirs outside the castle.

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Very deep metro at Prague, the escalator was really long...

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We went to Billa supermarket to do some grocery shopping, Google Translate came into rescue. I managed to get bottled water that does not contain gas.

Dinner was at another Chezh restaurant. We waited for the bill, didn’t realized that one has to go to the bar and make payment. One still have to pay tips.

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The sunset sky today was amazing, so went to take pictures of Prague Castle. There was a car accident that blocked the tram way, which halted all tram services plying that corridor. The police car raced to the scene through the now-empty tram corridor to assist and remove the cars that grounded the trams. Werent we lucky to take the metro just now instead of trams, else we would get stucked. But we are stucked now, and the sun was setting quick. The cars were finally removed from the road junction, the trams started moving again. The moment we got down the tram, we raced to the bridge to capture the sunset adorning Prague Castle. There was fire works released from the banks of the river while we were on the bridge – we suspect it had something to do with Hari Raya celebration.

The guys wanted to try the boating in the river below but the attendant told them they were closed for the day.

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200. The Dancing House.


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6 Jun 2019 (Thu) Prague - Dresden - Potsdam

The next day we drove from Prague to Dresden and parked out car in a underground parking lot of a shopping centre. The toilet at the carpark charged 70 cents per entry. The toilets inside the shopping mall cost 50 cents.

We had currywurst as lunch. Then we walked to the Zwinger to take photos. We didn’t have much time to visit other buildings nearby as the weather turned bad.

A bit of background on Zwinger:CLICK THIS LINK.

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After that we drove to Postdam, and managed to get to the apartment booking office to collect our keys before they close. The apartment at Postdam was the nicest among all that we have stayed so far, and is also the most expensive. The toilet upstair even had a bathtub. Bad news though: they couldn’t install the WIFI router in time for us to use, so no wifi till tomorrow. This apartment has 3 rooms, a kitchen, a dining room and a outdoor coffee place, occupy 2 floors. The lower floor has a roof window and is quite cooling. The upper floor is warmer cos that’s where the water heater is.

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A bit of WWII history on Potsdam: The Potsdam Conference (July 17-August 2, 1945) was the last of the World War II meetings held by the “Big Three” heads of state. Featuring American President Harry S. Truman, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill (and his successor, Clement Attlee) and Soviet Premier Joseph Stalin, the talks established a Council of Foreign Ministers and a central Allied Control Council for administration of Germany. The leaders arrived at various agreements on the German economy, punishment for war criminals, land boundaries and reparations. Although talks primarily centered on postwar Europe, the Big Three also issued a declaration demanding “unconditional surrender” from Japan.

If you are interested to know more about the WWII history related to Postdam, please CLICK THIS LINK.

We drove to the Glecnicker Bridge (Bridge of Spiez, more info by clicking THIS LINK) and was met by drizzle. We waited awhile and the drizzle subsided. We took the opportunity to take pictures. The weather in Potsdam was slightly more chilly than Salzburg and Prague, which we were not complaining. We had our dinner at the train station, which has delicious Thai food cooked by the Vietnamese. The wifi in the train station was off after 8pm. The supermarket was opened till 10pm. We saw people returning their empty plastic bottles at a machine outside the supermarket and collect cash receipts in the process. My cousin even picked up a 3 euro receipt from the floor. We gave all these to the cashier, and the cashier showed us how to insert these receipts into a cashier machine to collect the cash.

237. Glecnicker Bridge


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During our sleep, the hourly clock chime from a church nearby kept us away from our restful sleeps.



7 Jun 2019 (Fri) Berlin

The next day, we drove the car from the street parking to the Parkhouse nearby as street parking was only free from 8pm to 8am, after which it is more expensive than parking a car in the Parkhouse. There was a market next to our apartment. I went to buy cherries while dad went to get his Potsdam t-shirt.

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We took the S-barn from Potsdam to Berlin, first stop was Olympic Stadium. After that we went to the Cathedral.

By sheer dumb luck, we bumped into The Zentral- und Landesbibliothek Berlin (ZLB), which is the largest public library in Germany. This place is heaven. First of all it has free public toilets, unheard of in Germany. It has a cafeteria that offer very reasonably priced and very tasty pastries and hot chocolates. Most importantly, it has wifi. So dad and mum can rest their legs, have their coffee break in this air-conditioned library while the rest of us can continue to East Side Gallery after getting our food. The cafeteria started off with no queue, after we ordered the long queue started to form. The guys behind us were kind of sad they didnt get to order the apple strudel as we finished them all.

After the brunch, we took the bus 248 to East Side Gallery. We didnt realise how infrequent this bus is, and that not all 248 will go to the East Side Gallery. Much time was wasted.

After that we went to the Brandenburg Gate for some photos before going for our guided tour in the Reichstag Building. This was the building that Nazi helped put out the fire before issuing fire decree to silence all opposition to its rule. The lady guide brought us to various places to explain to us the different parts of the building. This 1.5 hour tour was highlight of our tour in Berlin.

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256. Protest again. Near Eastern Berlin.


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261. Brandenburg Gate


262. The famous Hotel Adlon in Berlin.


263. Muslin wedding parade.


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265.Reichstag Building, with tight security.


266. Also known as the dome. The British architect Norman Foster was the one who added the dome to the building.


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268. They preserved the writing left behind by the Russian soldiers that liberated Berlin.


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270. "Glory to the victory flag over Europe", deciphered by a Russian in our tour group. Written in charcoal.


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272. Soldier from Ukraine.


273. Participant from Russia.


274. Remember the fire decree? This tunnel might have something to do with it. CLICK HERE to read more on what historians managed to find.



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276. Guess whose box was it?


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279. Norman Foster critised this logo, calling it the fat hen. Guess which section Merkel's party sits?


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305. Even urinal has its dedicated cubicle - security in the Reichstag for you.


We had dinner at Hofrau Munich, where the local germans like to hangout. They was a band performing, and people dance when they hear songs that they like. I noticed that whenever American songs were played, the tourists will go to the empty space in front to dance, as they probably couldn’t relate to the german songs that well.

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8 Jun 2019 Potsdam - Tegel

The next day we checked out of the apartment and visited the Sanssouci Palace in Potsdam. The refurbished palace is full of tourists on a Saturday.

Some background on Sanssouci Palace. CLICK THIS LINK.

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Pictures taken from the plane:

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333. Olympic Stadium


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335. Reichstag Building


336. Berliner Fernsehturm (Braodcast tower)


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The article I wrote to the Chinese newspapers in Singapore (Zaobao) was published. Article published was regarding Reichstag in Berlin.

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Notes:

1. Do check the coins you got back from grocer/vendors in Prague. We got some coins that are not legal tender of Chezh.

2. Check bills or receipts in all restaurant. If the total sum is wrong, ask them to check again. Tipping is expected, they will even suggest the amount that you should tip.

3. Need to change CZK money in Prague? More for small shops and vendors, and for public transports. In restaurants, you can pay by Euro and the rate is actually not bad.

4. Need to buy vignette for autobahn? Yes. If got caught, fines is not worth it.

5. Manual cars? Diesel cars? Seems like a norm in Europe. Their gear system is different from Asia, so doesnt mean that you drive manual in Asia you will know how to handle the gear in Europe. Make sure you check and check again if your car is a diesel car like ours. Once you pumped gasoline into a diesel car, you are asking for a big trouble. Our diesel car is very fuel efficient, we didnt spend much on fuel.

6. Enough time to transit at the airports with only 50 minutes of transit? It helped that because we requested for wheelchair assistance, the whole group got collected by mini bus from the plane in Zurich Airport and whizzed through the passport control in Zurich Airport, with minimal questions. Also my parents were offered front row seats by the airline. My cousins managed to get front row seats cos they checked in as soon as check in opened, before the crowd of automatic check-in swarm in. So all in all 50 minutes of transit is doable. Zurich Airport afterall is a small airport.

7. Pickpockets a problem in Prague? We were lucky that we didnt bump into any. Still, be on high alert on all times especially during summer.

8. Public transport tips: Beware of buses and trains that end their service halfways and not heading to the terminal station, which mean you have to get down and take the next bus/tram if you have not reached your destination. Beware of people who gave you wrong directions. Press for button for doors to open once the tram reach your station. Doors will only be opened if the bell for that door was pressed and the button on that doors was pressed. This is especially true for trams at night, not all doors will open. People tend to eat and drink inside trains unlike ours where eating and drinking is prohibited. People offer their seats to seniors, very heart warming. It is different here, where people pretend to sleep and hog on seats meant for seniors.

Day tickets are worth it if you are taking public transport for the whole day. It cuts out the hassles. They do check tickets from time to time and the fines is heavy, tourist excuses will not be entertained. In Germany, there is such a thing called 5-person group ticket, that offer good-priced day ticket for a group of 5 people for train/bahn rides. It saved us some money I admit.

Having tickets is not enough, you must insert the tickets into the validator to validate your tickets. If the punch mark is not on your ticket, you will get fined as well.

9. Visit to Reichstag Building: The visit is free but you need to apply for tickets online in advance. Alternatively, queue on site for tickets that are available for that day. The tickets tend to be snapped up pretty quickly, especially tickets for guided tour. You need to go there earlier to go though security clearance. You can only go up to the top if weather permits. Guided tours are only available if parliament is not in session.

There is a restaurant at the top of Reichstag Building. It is quite an experience to dine there, though we didnt go cos we wanted to try out Hofrau in Berlin.

Reichstag was never used as a parliament after the Fire Decree was issued. Hitler used other locations to address his party comrades. The parliament building was used for other purpose during his rule. This building was only used as a parliament again after restoration completed in 1999. You can find out more about the history of Reichstag Building by clicking THIS LINK.

10. Weather forecasts and webcams: Your best friends to determine what was the actual weather of the place that you intend to visit.

11. Decline super cover for the car rental unless you really want it or else be prepared to pay through your nose.

12. For Hohemslazburg Fortress, buying tickets online using credit card and arriving at the Fortress before 10am saves you great deal of money. You just need to scan the QR code at the entrance to board the funicular. Audio guide is included in the visit.

13. If you are hungry at night in Potsdam, there are kebab shops to fill your stomach, the staff there are very friendly.

14. Sunrises tend to be very early and sunsets tend to be later. A bit of challenge for photographers, oh well. The heat could be unbearable later in the month. Heat wave in Europe reported after we came back.



15. My dad make sure he has his morning coffee everyday. I thought that was the right travel spirit.

16. We tend to over order in restaurant. Please do n-1 or n-2 (n being the number of table guests), depending on how many big eaters/ladies in your group, save some space for desserts/ice creams.

17. Buying mineral water without gas in Europe is always a guessing game. Make sure you ask. Most of the time, we either boil water and just fill up from the taps, they are supposedly safe.

18. Do not mix up Berlin War Memorial and East Side Gallery, there are worlds apart. Personally I prefer East Side Gallery.

19. Traffic light for pedestrian crossing at road junctions in Prague change from green to flickering green man pretty quickly. Do not try to cross the wide road junction when you see the flickering green man.

20. We were lucky that my cousins found out about Dresden, else we would have completely miss it.

21. If there are roadworks on autobahn (pretty common in summer), and there are dividers separating left and right lane, you need to make a very quick decision. If you are about to exit the autobahn, stick to the right lane which is gonna be very slow. If your destination is still far away, take the left lane, else you be slowed down much. I spoke the wrong side, and wasted precious time.

22. If you order in fast food restaurant, do check that they didnt give you less drinks/burgers/fries, sometimes they couldnt quite cope with big group ordering. Sitting outside might be cooler than getting stuck indoor with little of no aircond.

23. Be very very very careful about speed restrictions in Austria, especially in Hallstatt region. We got a traffic violation from there. I am still trying to find out what was the offense, meanwhile do drive according speed limit in Austria, particularly in Hallstatt and the neighbouring area.





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